When to Toss Makeup? Beauty Expert Insight on Cosmetic Expiration Dates

Your makeup bag is likely filled with products you love—the perfect foundation shade, that reliable mascara, the lipstick that makes you feel confident. But here’s the uncomfortable truth: every single one of those products has an expiration date. Understanding cosmetic expiration dates isn’t just about following rules; it’s about protecting your skin from bacteria, mold, and ingredient degradation that can cause irritation, infections, and breakouts. Many beauty enthusiasts unknowingly use expired makeup for months or even years, compromising both their skin health and makeup performance.

The cosmetic industry doesn’t always make expiration dates obvious. Unlike food products with clearly printed “use by” dates, makeup often features cryptic symbols or no date information at all. This ambiguity leaves consumers confused about when products actually expire and whether using an old mascara or foundation is truly risky. As a makeup and skincare expert, I’ve seen firsthand how expired products can trigger sensitivity, especially in those already dealing with conditions like eczema or inflammation. Knowing when to discard your cosmetics is essential for maintaining a healthy, radiant complexion and getting the best performance from your beauty routine.

In this comprehensive guide, we’ll decode the mystery of makeup expiration, explore why products expire, identify the signs that your cosmetics have gone bad, and establish a simple system for tracking product age. Whether you’re a minimalist with five products or a collector with fifty, this information will help you maintain a safe, effective beauty collection.

Why Does Makeup Actually Expire?

Makeup doesn’t expire because of a magical date the manufacturer chooses arbitrarily. Instead, expiration occurs due to several scientific and chemical processes that degrade product quality and safety. Understanding these mechanisms helps you appreciate why tossing that five-year-old eyeshadow isn’t just a marketing gimmick—it’s genuine skin protection.

Preservative Breakdown: Most makeup products contain preservatives designed to inhibit bacterial and fungal growth. These chemical preservatives have a limited lifespan; over time, they lose their antimicrobial efficacy. Once preservatives degrade, bacteria and mold can proliferate in your product, even if it’s stored in a seemingly clean environment. This is particularly critical for products applied near the eyes, mouth, and mucous membranes where infections can develop quickly.

Oxidation and Ingredient Degradation: Exposure to air, light, and heat causes active ingredients to oxidize and break down. If your foundation contains beneficial antioxidants for skin protection, these compounds gradually lose potency. Oils in cream products become rancid, emulsions separate permanently, and pigments fade or shift in color. Your makeup becomes less effective and potentially irritating.

Bacterial and Fungal Colonization: Every time you dip a brush into powder or touch a liquid product with your finger, you introduce bacteria from your skin and environment. Even with preservatives working optimally, repeated exposure creates opportunities for microbial growth. In expired products with compromised preservative systems, these microorganisms flourish unchecked.

Texture and Consistency Changes: Mascara dries out, cream products harden or become oily, and powder formulas clump. These textural changes indicate chemical and physical changes in the product’s structure. While an old mascara might seem harmless, the thickened formula can harbor more bacteria and may scratch delicate eye tissue when applied.

Cosmetic Expiration Timeline by Product Type

Different makeup products have vastly different shelf lives based on their formulation, water content, and how often they’re exposed to air. Here’s a detailed breakdown of when to toss specific products:

Eye Products (3-6 Months)

Mascara and Liquid Eyeliner expire quickest—typically 3-6 months after opening. These water-based products contain minimal preservatives relative to their volume and are exposed to air every single application. The wand or applicator introduces bacteria directly into the product. Never share mascara with others, and never add water to revive dried-out mascara; you’re only introducing contamination. If you wear mascara daily, aim to replace it every 3 months.

Eyeshadow (Powder) lasts 12-24 months once opened. Powder formulas are naturally more stable than liquids because they contain minimal water. However, if you use wet brushes or apply eyeshadow over damp eyelids, moisture introduces bacteria. Store powder eyeshadow in a cool, dry place away from humidity.

Eyeshadow (Cream) expires faster than powder versions—typically 12-18 months. Cream formulas contain more water and oil, making them susceptible to separation and bacterial growth. If your cream shadow develops an off smell or changes texture, discard it immediately.

Face Products (6-12 Months)

Foundation and Concealer typically last 6-12 months after opening, though liquid formulas expire faster than stick or powder versions. Liquid foundation is particularly vulnerable because it’s applied to the face with fingers or tools, introducing bacteria repeatedly. Pump bottles are safer than jars because they minimize air exposure. If your foundation separates, smells rancid, or develops visible mold, toss it regardless of the timeline.

Powder Products (blush, bronzer, setting powder) last 12-18 months. These are among the longest-lasting makeup products because powder formulations are inherently stable. However, if you apply them with wet brushes or notice they’ve become hard and won’t blend, they’ve likely degraded.

Primer typically lasts 12 months. Silicone-based primers are more stable than water-based versions. Check for separation, grittiness, or changes in texture as signs of expiration.

Lip Products (12-24 Months)

Lipstick and Lip Gloss last 12-24 months because they contain oils and waxes that provide natural preservation. However, if you notice the texture has become waxy, grainy, or the color has shifted significantly, it’s time to replace it. Liquid lip products expire faster than solid sticks—typically 12-18 months.

Lip Liners can last up to 24 months because pencil formulas are naturally more stable. Sharpen them regularly to remove potentially contaminated outer layers.

Specialty Products

Setting Spray typically lasts 12 months. These water-based formulas require adequate preservatives. If the smell changes or it appears cloudy, discard it.

Highlighter and Contour follow the same timeline as blush and bronzer—12-18 months for powder formulas, 6-12 months for cream versions.

These timelines assume products are opened and used. Unopened, sealed cosmetics can last 2-3 years, though it’s still wise to check the PAO symbol or manufacturing date before using.

Understanding the PAO Symbol

The Period After Opening (PAO) symbol is your primary tool for tracking cosmetic expiration. It appears as a small jar icon with a number and letter (for example, “6M” or “12M”) printed on product packaging. This symbol indicates how many months the product remains safe and effective after you open it for the first time.

The number represents months, and the letter “M” stands for months. A “6M” symbol means the product is safe for 6 months after opening. A “12M” symbol indicates 12 months of safety. This is different from the manufacturing date; it’s specifically about post-opening stability.

Why the PAO Symbol Matters: The PAO symbol is based on rigorous stability testing conducted by manufacturers. Products are subjected to temperature cycling, light exposure, and microbial challenge tests to determine exactly when preservative efficacy drops below acceptable levels. Regulators like the FDA require this testing, ensuring the PAO symbol represents genuine safety data.

Finding the PAO Symbol: Look on the back or bottom of packaging, often near other regulatory information. It’s usually small and easy to miss. If you can’t find it on the package, check the product manual or the brand’s website. Some brands include the manufacturing date (usually a series of numbers or letters), allowing you to calculate expiration independently.

Limitations of PAO Symbols: The PAO assumes normal storage conditions—room temperature, away from direct sunlight, and in a closed container. If you store makeup in a hot bathroom, near a window, or in humid environments, the actual expiration date comes much sooner. Additionally, the PAO symbol doesn’t account for how frequently you expose the product to air or how often you introduce bacteria through application.

Signs Your Makeup Has Expired

Beyond the PAO symbol timeline, your senses can alert you to expired makeup. These visual, olfactory, and tactile signs indicate a product should be discarded immediately:

Visual Changes: Separation (especially in foundations or primers), visible mold or mildew, color shifts, cloudiness in liquid products, or crystallization in powders all indicate expiration. If your mascara has clumped beyond revival or your eyeshadow has become hard and won’t blend, these are clear signs of degradation.

Smell: Any off-odor—rancid, sour, or chemically unpleasant—indicates bacterial or fungal growth or ingredient degradation. Trust your nose; if something smells wrong, it is wrong. Never use a product with an unusual smell, as it can trigger skin irritation or infection.

Texture Changes: Cream products that have become grainy, liquid products that feel thicker or thinner than normal, or powders that won’t blend smoothly have likely expired. These textural changes indicate chemical breakdown or microbial colonization.

Performance Issues: If your foundation no longer provides adequate coverage, your concealer separates when blended, or your mascara flakes excessively, the product’s active ingredients have likely degraded. Expired makeup simply doesn’t perform as intended.

Skin Reactions: Unexplained irritation, itching, redness, or breakouts after using specific products may indicate expired cosmetics. If you notice your skin reacts negatively to a product you’ve used for months without issue, the product may have expired. Pay special attention to reactions around the eyes, where skin is most sensitive and infections develop quickly.

How Storage Affects Expiration Dates

Proper storage can extend makeup lifespan, while poor storage dramatically accelerates expiration. The PAO symbol assumes ideal storage conditions, but most people don’t store cosmetics optimally.

Temperature Control: Heat accelerates ingredient degradation and preservative breakdown. Never store makeup in hot cars, near heating vents, or in direct sunlight. The ideal storage temperature is 50-77°F (10-25°C). If you live in a hot climate or keep your bathroom warm year-round, your makeup expires faster than the PAO symbol suggests. Consider storing products in a cool bedroom or even a small cooler during summer months.

Humidity Management: Bathrooms are the worst place to store makeup because humidity accelerates bacterial growth and causes emulsions to separate. Store cosmetics in a dry bedroom or closet instead. If you must keep products in the bathroom, use airtight containers and avoid placing them directly on surfaces where water splashes.

Light Protection: UV light degrades active ingredients and accelerates oxidation. Store makeup in opaque containers, drawers, or dark cabinets. Transparent cosmetic organizers look beautiful but expose products to light, reducing shelf life. If you use clear organizers, place them in a cabinet or cover them with a dark cloth.

Air Exposure: Minimize air exposure by keeping containers tightly sealed. Don’t leave foundation bottles open while applying, and always cap products immediately after use. Consider transferring frequently-used products into smaller containers to reduce the air-to-product ratio in the original packaging.

Hygiene Practices: Use clean brushes or applicators every time you apply makeup. Wash brushes weekly with gentle cleanser and allow them to dry completely before use. Never double-dip brushes into products—pour or dispense what you need into a clean palette first. These practices significantly extend product lifespan by reducing bacterial introduction.

With optimal storage, you might extend a product’s life by 2-3 months beyond the PAO symbol. However, this doesn’t override safety—if a product shows signs of expiration, discard it regardless of storage conditions.

Skin Health Risks of Expired Cosmetics

Using expired makeup isn’t just ineffective; it poses genuine health risks, particularly for those with sensitive skin or conditions like eczema. Understanding these risks reinforces why cosmetic expiration matters.

Bacterial Infections: Expired eye makeup is most dangerous because bacteria can cause serious infections. Conjunctivitis (pink eye), styes, and keratitis are bacterial infections that develop when contaminated mascara or eyeliner is applied near the eye. These conditions are painful, contagious, and sometimes require antibiotic treatment. If you’ve ever experienced a stye, you understand the importance of discarding old eye products.

Fungal Infections: Mold and yeast thrive in expired products with compromised preservative systems. Fungal infections on the face or around the eyes are particularly stubborn and may require prescription antifungal medications. People with weakened immune systems or those taking immunosuppressive medications are at higher risk.

Contact Dermatitis and Irritation: Expired ingredients and bacterial byproducts trigger inflammatory responses. Even if you don’t develop an active infection, using expired makeup can cause redness, itching, burning, and sensitivity. For those already managing skin inflammation or eczema, expired cosmetics can trigger significant flare-ups.

Impaired Skin Barrier Function: Expired products may contain rancid oils or degraded emulsifiers that disrupt the skin barrier. This impairs your skin’s ability to retain moisture and protect against environmental stressors. If you’re using an expired primer or foundation, you might unknowingly be compromising your skin barrier while trying to achieve a flawless base.

Accelerated Skin Aging: If your makeup contains beneficial ingredients like antioxidants or peptides that have degraded, you’re losing their anti-aging benefits while potentially exposing skin to oxidized byproducts that accelerate aging. This is particularly relevant if you use antioxidant-rich makeup formulas.

Interaction with Skincare: If you’re building a comprehensive skincare routine for glowing skin with carefully selected products like those containing ceramides for hydration, expired makeup can undermine your efforts. A contaminated foundation or primer can disrupt the skin barrier and negate the benefits of your skincare investments.

The risk is particularly elevated during winter months when skin dryness already compromises the skin barrier. Adding expired, potentially irritating makeup compounds the problem.

FAQ

How do I know when I opened my makeup if there’s no date recorded?

Write the opening date directly on the product packaging with a permanent marker when you first open it. This takes seconds but eliminates guesswork. Alternatively, use a spreadsheet or beauty app to track opening dates for frequently-used products. Some people place a small sticker with the date on the bottom of containers. This simple habit prevents expired product use and is particularly important for eye makeup.

Can I use expired makeup if I store it in the refrigerator?

Refrigeration slows ingredient degradation and preservative breakdown, potentially extending shelf life by 20-30%. However, it doesn’t eliminate expiration risk entirely. Refrigerated products can still develop mold or bacterial contamination if exposed to air or contaminated applicators. Use refrigeration as a storage enhancement, not a solution for expired products. Additionally, condensation can form when removing cold products to warm rooms, introducing moisture and bacteria. If you refrigerate makeup, allow products to reach room temperature before opening.

Is it safe to use unopened makeup past its manufacturing date?

Unopened, sealed products in original packaging can typically be used 2-3 years after manufacturing, assuming proper storage. However, check for visual signs of degradation (separation, discoloration, texture changes) before using. The PAO symbol doesn’t apply to unopened products, but the manufacturing date does. If you find old unopened makeup, check the manufacturing date or expiration date printed on packaging. When in doubt, perform a patch test on a small area of skin before full application.

What should I do with expired makeup?

Never pour makeup down the drain, as it can clog pipes and harm aquatic ecosystems. Check if your local waste management facility accepts cosmetics in hazardous waste programs. Some beauty retailers like beauty retailers and drugstores accept old makeup for recycling or proper disposal. Alternatively, place expired makeup in sealed bags before placing in regular trash. Some brands offer take-back programs for empty or expired products; check the brand’s website for details.

Do cream or liquid makeup expire faster than powder?

Yes, significantly faster. Cream and liquid formulas contain water and oils, creating ideal environments for bacterial and fungal growth. Powders are naturally more stable because they lack water and have minimal oil content. Liquid formulas typically expire 6-12 months after opening, while powder equivalents last 12-24 months. This is why powder eyeshadow lasts longer than cream eyeshadow, and why powder blush outlasts cream blush.

Can I extend makeup expiration by not opening the original packaging?

Partially. An unopened product in sealed original packaging lasts longer than an opened product because it’s not exposed to air, bacteria, or light. However, once you open it—even just to peek—the PAO countdown begins. The seal is broken, and bacteria can enter. Don’t open products you’re not ready to use. If you have duplicate products, keep one sealed as backup and only open when needed.

Are natural or organic makeup products safer to use when expired?

Not necessarily. While natural and organic products may contain fewer synthetic preservatives, they still require preservation systems to prevent bacterial and fungal growth. In fact, some natural preservative systems are less effective than synthetic ones, meaning natural products might expire faster. Always follow the PAO symbol regardless of whether products are natural, organic, or conventional. Don’t assume natural equals safer when expired.

How does makeup expiration differ between brands?

Different formulations and preservative systems result in varying expiration timelines. A high-end brand’s foundation might last 12 months while a drugstore brand lasts 6 months, or vice versa. The PAO symbol accounts for brand-specific formulations, so always follow the symbol on each product rather than generalizing across brands. Quality and price don’t determine safety—the preservative system and formulation determine expiration.